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One of the things digital photographers love to obsess over is our post-processing technique. RAW conversion, noise reduction, color adjustment, upsizing, sharpening, (especially sharpening!); everyone has their own preferred methods. One factor not frequently discussed is bit depth. Bit depth is the number of bits used to describe one pixel. Most computer images are 24-bit--they use 8 bits each for the red, green, and blue color values. This will give you slightly more than 16 million possible colors, which sounds like a lot, and it is. But many high-end cameras and scanners produce more than 8 bits per color channel, and Adobe Photoshop allows editing of images with 16 bits per color channel, a total of 48 bits. But before busting out with a "Way narly, dude!" and proclaiming this the coolest thing since the invention of sliced bread, consider this: twice as many bits per pixel means twice as much data to process when editing. This means twice as much data per image to process, load, and save, and twice the storage is required on disk to save the image. A 200 megabyte image magically becomes 400 megabytes. So what is the point of making everything twice as big and twice as slow? Simply this: All digital image editing is mathematical, To make a photo brighter, you either add to or multiply the pixel color values to make them larger, or do other mathematical operations. 8 bit images have a total of 256 possible integer values per color channel. When doing a color adjustment, what if the result of the equation is 129.725? The computer will round off the answer to 130, since that is the closest whole number. When doing one adjustment to an image, this rounding error is insignificant, but when doing many adjustments and changes to an image, these rounding errors can add up. Or at least that is the way the theory goes. 16 bit mode is still in the realm of integers, but now the allowable values run from 0-65535 instead of 0-255. This is a significant difference, but is this really worth bothering about? Do real-world results exhibit any differences?

Noel Carboni, a regular contributor in the Rob Galbraith forums, recently started a discussion thread suggesting that the benefits of 16-bit editing were not outweighed by the extra overhead imposed by 16-bit editing; that anything doable in 16-bit mode could also be done well in 8-bit mode, if one does it properly. He took a lot of heat for his position (some of it bordering on ad hominem), but Noel has demonstrated on numerous occasions that he can take a photograph and process it using his preferred 8-bit editing methods, and produce excellent results. So his position is obviously not the ravings of an ignorant crackpot; he has some real-world results to back it up. I must admit that I'm a believer in 16-bit editing, and have gone to great lengths to construct my workflow so that the images I work on stay in 16-bit mode throughout the editing process. So anyway the end result is that Noel and I decided to do a head-to-head comparison or contest of sorts; each of us starting with the same RAW image, and editing it via our preferred methods, to see who could produce a superior result. Noel proposed an image of his lovely wife, and I accepted. The image has some characteristics that make it challenging to interpret well:

1. It has some blown highlights in the background.
2. The shadow areas have some noise that has to be dealt with.
3. The dynamic range is pretty wide, keeping detail throughout the image and maintaining a natural look without accentuating the noise is difficult.
4. The lighting is a combination of incandescent and sunlight, making a good white balance difficult.

So anyway, here is a side-by-side comparison of our efforts. Look at the images first, and see if you can decide who did what. The answer is at the bottom of the page...

And while I'm thinking about it, this image is the intellectual property of Noel Carboni, used with permission, yada yada yada. If you want to put it on the cover of your glamour magazine, talk to him first.

8 Bit (Noel Carboni)

16 Bit (Jonathan Wienke)

Pros:

1. Very little noise is visible. The overall softness of the image is flattering to the subject.

Cons:

1. The overall softness mutes a lot of detail, like the wood grain in the table.

2.Color saturation is just a little overdone in the darker areas (floor, table leg, etc.) but disappears entirely between brightness values 225-235. This makes her forehead look shinier than it really is, and makes the hair highlights look blown out, even though they aren't. It also affects the look of skin tone transitions going from highlights to shadows.

Other:

Noel did his sharpening with monitor viewing in mind, not printing.

Pros:

1. Very sharp, lots of detail exhibited, even in the highlights (except for the window area in the background that is far too bright for any hope of capturing detail).

2. Color saturation levels are consistent between shadows, midtones, and highlights.

Cons:

1. The sharpness of the image accentuates the noise somewhat, and is less flattering to the subject. Viewed at 100%, the whole image looks a little crunchy.

Other:

When I did my sharpening, I was trying to see how far I could push the sharpening without haloing or accentuating the noise too much. I used a print (Canon S9000, Ilford Galerie Smooth Gloss, 8x10") to judge the optimum trade-off between sharpness and noise.

Workflow

1. Convert the image to 8 bit TIFF twice in File Viewer Utility, once at 0 EV and once at +2 EV.

2. Open each image, paste the +2 image over the 0 EV image as a second layer.

3. Erase through the blown highlights to expose good data from underneath.

4. Flatten the image.

5. Run Color Blotch Reduction to get rid of the color noise.

6. Run More Noise Reduction to lower the grain in open areas.

7. Tweak colors with Image-Adjust-Color Balance a little.

8. Use the clone tool to get rid of a mark and a mole on my wife's leg.

9. Run Medium Sharp Low ISO sharpening.

Noel's actions are available for sale at http://actions.home.att.net/.

Workflow

1. Convert image with Adobe Camera RAW, -1.2EV (to get as much of the highlights as possible), sharpness 0, smoothing 5, output 16 bit Adobe RGB.

2. Run NeatImage to get rid of as much noise as possible without losing detail. (Photoshop plug-in)

3. Image- Adjust- Levels to set white and black points.

4. Convert to LAB mode.

5. Image-Adjust-Curves on L channel to adjust the tonal transitions of the image.

5. Convert back to RGB, save as 16-bit TIFF.

6. Open TIFF with S-Spline Pro, upsize 300%, save large 16-bit TIFF.

7. Open large TIFF in Photoshop, Image-Adjust-Color Balance to do initial color adjustments.

8. Run Midtone Sharpen 16 LAB 2X to sharpen image and return it to its original pixel dimensions.

9. Image-Adjust-Color Balance again for final color balance tweak.

10.Convert to sRGB color space for web presentation.

My action set is available here.

 

Feel free to email us with comments regarding this comparison, or go to the Rob Galbraith forum thread and post comments there.

 

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